“I have a lot of things I need to do, this is what I chose to do.”-Mayfield’s response to my thanking him for the Red/Texoma portage
Monday, November 17th
It snowed last night, quite early in the season for North Texas. I was warm inside John Durst’s home, I felt blessed. John and his mother cooked an early breakfast and we headed to Mayfield’s (his new home is under construction). The weather was bitterly cold (again) but I felt renewed after drying out my gear and recharging my batteries.
John introduced me to Mayfield, a multi-generation Red River (Texas side) land owner. Mayfield couldn’t have been nicer, he was happy to meet me and made me feel like part of his family. We spent some time discussing the Red and how unique it is in it’s direction. Most people think it is an east-west river but it really is a nw-sw river. His home under construction will have beautiful sunset views, perhaps an future invite is in order when conditions thaw out…..
Mayfield carted me back to my snow covered canoe and I headed out to a sunny, cold Texas morning. It was a productive day, I inched closer to the Bonham bridge and had deeper water to paddle in. It was unusual to see snow on the banks of the river although they melted off quickly. By afternoon, the polar vortex had started to relent a little.
I finished about 4 miles from the Bonham bridge but not before canoeing into a dead end. I was paddling on the outside bank and ran into an eddy, I had to backtrack and find the main channel. It was great going back downstream for the few minutes I had to backtrack..although hopefully I can avoid this situation in the future. I found a nice sandbar and called it an evening.
Tuesday, November 18th
I finally passed under the Bonham Bridge, a landmark that took longer than anticipated. The stretch from Paris to Bonham will stand out as one of the more difficult stretches when this trip is over. The weather, the snow, the shallowness, the good fortune, all of it has created indelible memories. i I didn’t stop in Bonham as I was well supplied, it’s hard to believe that I only have Carpenter’s Bluff Briddge and then I am pretty much at the Dennison Dam. Only a few days for sure.
It was cold although not nearly as windy which made for better canoeing conditions. The river was more shallow today than the previous couple days, I was in and out quite a bit..not as much as just above Paris but enough to frustrate me at times. “Shut up and paddle!!”
I did see a few more homes and it appears civilization isn’t as far remove on this section. I had some really beautiful sections as well, leaves are still to be found which almost makes it feel like fall. It is strange to canoe home, I know I am only an hours drive from Dallas but it still feels like I could be in South Dakota. I have the sense that all of these stops I’ve been making the past month or so are locations far, far away. The reality is I am getting closer. Thoughts of “what’s next?” are more common now.
Wednesday, November 19th
Carpenter’s Bluff. I canoed to Carpenter’s Bluff today. It was an emotional moment. For those that have been following the trip, I interviewed Brian Fleming here back in May. I remember thinking back then that it would be unbelievable if I actually canoed from MT to this location. Today it happened.
It was surreal passing under the bridge, a totally different scene than in the spring. Also, Dustin came out to loan me his tent as mine is now on a wing and prayer. He also took me into Dennison for dinner, only this time I came back and camped just above the bridge. Also, Andy Bugh contacted me and offered to meet me tomorrow on Lake Texoma. Thankfully he didn’t tell me about anymore snow or braided channels.
I reached out to Mayfield and John for portage assistance tomorrow and they were excited to assist. Hard to believe….who gets excited to help portage someone’s grubby gear and canoe around a dam?
Today the river continued to prove challenging, it was shallow, it was deep, it had fast current, it was deep, etc. I suspect this will be the case until Texoma. I am really looking forward to a deep body of water that I can paddle in….hopefully the weather will cooperate.
Thursday, November 20th
I awoke from just above Carpenter’s Bluff and ended the day on Lake Texoma. I would characterize it as a successful day/evening.
I wasn’t sure how the final miles below Texoma would play out but I couldn’t have asked for a better stretch before the Dennison Dam. The first few miles above Carpenter’s Bluff were difficult…narrow, fast current, shallow..and then about 5 miles from the dam the river widened, the wind was at my back, and I quickly arrived at Dennison Dam. Mayfield arrived in his truck with food and a smile. I was thankful for his willingness to portage me to Lake Texoma. It sounds weird to say I’m at Lake Texoma, it is finally sinking in that I am getting closer to home.
I have heard comments that people are concerned about me paddling Lake Texoma. I will definitely be careful, any lake can get crazy if conditions are windy but I will rely on my earlier lake experiences. Fort Peck is 3 times the size of Texoma.
After the portage, it was heavenly to paddle in deep water without current. I had a blast, it was fun. I am certain I was smiling the two hours I paddled Lake Texoma today. I paddled into Eisenhower State Park and found a great beach. I setup camp and was so happy to have a short reprieve from paddling upstream. Andy Bugh came out to visit me, he brought food and spirits and we had a great evening rapping about paddling. He paddled from Montana to the Gulf in 2011-the great flood year. He had a real tough time with finding camping spots and dealt with really cold conditions on the Mississippi River.
We said our goodbyes and I called it a night. Good chance I can make the other side of the Red tomorrow…if conditions are favorable.
I remember being super cold when that polar vortex hit, I was in my car as it was heating up and thinking, dang, Keith is out in this!